Chamblee, GA

Right galvanized nipple under bathroom sink is leaking. Turned water off to the home. Left galvanized nipple broke while attempting removal. Removed section of drywall and repiped section of water line in copper. Removed right galvanized nipple. Installed two new stop valves and two new supply lines. Checked for leaks. Water pressure is at 90 psi. Unable to warranty pressurized water line connections due to high water pressure. Provided options to install a new pressure reducing valve and replace thermal expansion tank. True Plumbing does not repair drywall.

Removed diverter for tub filler. Installed a new diverter for tub filler. Checked for leaks. No leaks were found.

Arrived at property for potential backup of main sewer line. Upon arrival, standing water can be seen in downstairs bathroom. Turned water off to main service line of property as standing water appeared to be clear, unlike sewage. Used shop vac to clear downstairs bathroom of standing water. Once water has been cleared, turned water back on to property and meter can be seen spinning. This is an indication that main water line is damaged. Turned water back off at meter. Downstairs toilet can be seen gurgling. Pulled toilet to preform camera inspection. Main sewer line is full of standing water upon inspection. While inspecting line, camera was able to provide relief for main sewer line. A root intrusion and separation can be seen in main line. Note: Homeowner gave approval to not reset toilet. Capped off angle stop valve to toilet and water has remained off at meter to property until main water service line is replaced.

Arrived on-site to investigate potential issues with ignition error code from the tankless water heater. Provided options to start, and customer opted to have tankless water heater diagnosed with the manufacturer. We called manufacturer and proceeded with diagnostic procedures, including gas pressure and inspecting ignition coil for spark. Findings: What we found is that the tankless water heater was igniting properly, which led the manufacturer to believe that the components were just dirty. He recommended an in-depth cleaning of multiple components, including the fan, the heat exchanger fins, the burner, and the flame rods. This is a pretty extensive cleaning for us and would take a lot of time. I opted to clean the flame rods, which was relatively straightforward and the most likely culprit. Customer also mentioned that the toilet downstairs had started leaking and caused some minor damage. He also mentioned that the faucet in the same bathroom where the toilet was leaking had the

Replaced existing back vanity faucet in primary bathroom with a customer supplied faucet. Replaced hot and cold stop valves at no additional charge. The new tub filler diverter was defective from manufacturer. A new part will need to be ordered to repair the tub. Recommended not using at this time.

12/23/25 Customer called about a few things in home. Banging of pipes, replacing galvanized nipples, and a leaking hose bib. Checked water pressure and found it to be high at 82psi. Customer wants to gather more estimates and will reach out when ready.

Open clean outs for all floor drains and jet lines multiple times to clear out debris and flush thoroughly. — Returned to complete proposed work. We cut out the old cleanouts on the floor near floor drains. First used flex shaft machine to get the stoppage to drain. We then used the hydro jetter to thoroughly flush each cleanout drain before it exits the building. Inside the pipe is a lot of nuts/bolts, parts debri etc. We didn’t want to flush everything have it pile in one spot, as it could create more issues. We were able to get the stoppage clear and drain flowing, however, due to the age and condition we cannot warranty the stoppage for more than 2 weeks. If problems continue we can provide a price to cut the floor and replace the pipes. Replaced two cleanout caps Customer paid via check

Arrived at property to diagnose leak in ceiling basement and a leaking P trap located in kitchen. Identified cause for leaking P trap and replaced connecting washer to make a secure fitting. Filled sink with water and drained to make sure no leaks would occur. Went to basement afterwards with thermal reading tool to find moisture in ceiling. Found concentrated moisture underneath bathtub drain in a board with a rusted nail. Located another area with moisture underneath another bathroom with free standing shower. Water may be leaking from shower pan - advised remediation team to look into both (Reliable Restoration 678-492-9860). Checked water pressure from outside back hose spigot and read 50 PSI. Finished up by recaulking bathtub and shower handles.

Primary bathroom faucet leaking. Tub filler diverter is leaking from hand shower when tub filler is in use. Provided estimate for various recommended repairs. Water pressure to the home is at 75 psi. Thermal expansion tank is indicating failure.

11/22/25 Customer called about a gas leak. TP arrived and tested for gas leak. Found a leak on a 1/2in elbow joint. Gas line feeds a stove top. Will leave estimate for repair in attachment.

- Water Meter Investigation & High Water Bill Assessment Arrived on-site to investigate high water bill ($1,600) for property owner at 3646 and assess water meter connections for both 3646 and 3648 (located uphill from 3646). Background: Water company previously visited and informed owner of 3648 that the leak was not connected to his unit, and identified a specific water meter they believed serviced 3648. Findings: Upon arrival, verified that the water meter identified by the water company as servicing 3648 was in the OFF position, yet 3648 still had active water service. This confirms the water company’s meter identification was incorrect. Investigated and determined that the owner of 3646 has been paying the water bill for BOTH buildings. Confirmed this by: - Shutting off the water meter associated with 3646’s account - both buildings lost water service - Verifying the water meter ID number on 3646’s bill matches the physical meter in the meter box Current Status: - Unable t

Upstairs hall bathroom left lavatory sink cold stop valve was leaking from the galvanized nipple. I informed the customer that I could attempt to unthread the nipple, but there would be a large possibility that we would need to access the pipe from behind the wall if the pipe did not unthread properly. The customer agreed and I attempted to remove the old nipple. Upon removal the threads broke due to rust. I then informed the customer I would need to cut the drywall to gain access. The customer requested that I replace both nipples since I was already cutting the drywall. I prepped the area and cut away the drywall. I removed a section of drywall and gained access to the pipe. I removed the old pipe and the old 2x4 backing. I replaced the pipe and the wood backing with new wood. I then connected the new copper nipples and installed new stop valves. I turned the water back on and inspected for leaks. No leaks were found. I replaced both supply lines and checked for proper function. Ever

Repair sewer line near drive way. Sewer pipe is pvc and transitions to orangeburge pipe going under drive way. From the house to the driveway it is now all PVC pipe. Installed new cleanout near drive way. We were able to make a good connection to the orangeburge pipe, however, we cannot warranty any of the orangeburge pipe. Should the remainder sewer line fail, excavation or the drive way would be the next step. Customer paid via check,

Customer has an active gas leak coming from crawl space. The house is approximately 95 years old. The crawl space is very inaccessible. The only gas appliances is the water heater and stove top. No furnace. No dispatch charge per office staff.

Psi 70 Upstairs hall toilet is running. Toilet is an American Standard Champion. The flush seal is silicone and is bubbling causing seal to not sit properly allowing water to leak. Customer will replace flush seal. Checked water pressure and found to be at 70 psi. Let customer know that the cold water line to the heater is corroded and recommend replacing corroded copper tubing. Let customer know that the expansion tank needs to be secured to wall. Customer will have it done when water heater is replaced.

Technician inspected basement bathroom for any potential leaks as requested, found all fixtures were working properly with no leaks at fixtures or around the,. Customer plans on having bathroom renovation in the near future. Technician checked water heater and found it seemed in good condition visually but noted it was from 2003 and left options to replace.

Technician inspected basement bathroom for any potential leaks as requested, found all fixtures were working properly with no leaks at fixtures or around the,. Customer plans on having bathroom renovation in the near future. Technician checked water heater and found it seemed in good condition visually but noted it was from 2003 and left options to replace.

These are my recommendations based on my findings Good Condition: #2: turns easily, do not replace #6: turns easily, do not replace #13: turns easily, do not replace #15: hard to turn, consider replacing #18: turns easily, do not replace Bad condition: #8: missing handle, and bent stem, recommend replacing #16: handle in box, but no valve, will need to dig to expose, needed replacement is likely #17: missing handle, and seems corroded, recommend replacing Can’t find: #7: found box, need to dig to expose, likely need to replace #12: found box lid, but no box, will need to investigate more. There is a large meter box far away which has two lines. We could likely trace that line and find the box or add a box and new shutoff, likely will need new box and shutoff Estimates will be provided based on recommendations, assuming replacement for units 7, 12, 15, 16, 17

Returned to diagnose issue with pump system. After doing some tests, we determined the bottom “stop” float was not operating. If those float fails, the following “lead” and “lag” float will not tell the pumps to turn on. After confirming this, we verified both pumps are turning on and operating and proceeding. Both pumps are operational, and the other floats appear to be operational as well. Special ordered new 20’ float switch and returned to the job. Got into the sewer basin, and cut out the bottom “stop” float. We then sleeved the new float switch through the existing conduit. Install new float switch in the same area where the existing one was. Secured new float switch with new strap. Filled up the basin multiple times, and verified all floats are operating as they should, turning the pumps on and off. We also changed the setting on the control board to “alt”. This setting will help prolong the pumps lives by alternating which one turns on and off. We then removed as much of the

Performed quarterly jetting service for the pump system. Cleaned the entire basin of buildup and debri. Verified pumped operating as they should.

Removed three toilets and installed three new customer supplied toilets, included new wax rings, supply lines, toilet bolts and caps with every toilet. Disposed of old toilets. Tested each toilet multiple times before caulking around the base. Also rebuilt Kohler toilet in basement with new fill valve, flapper (flush seal), and supply line.

Trench water service along the length from the water meter to existing entry point. Install new 1” PEX-A piping along the length, and drill new entry point into home. Make approved connections from water meter to piping, to inside piping with new and approved adapters fittings. Install new shutoff valve inside the home. Customer paid by check

Provided estimate options for water service replacement Customer paid cash

See attached quote

Technician inspected leaking toilet, found leak was due to a failed tank-to-bowl bolt on old peerless toilet. Inspected remaining toilets and found on of the Kohler toilets in the basement had a failed and running fill valve, shutoff toilet at stop. Found two remaining peerless toilets also had some age and corrosion/buildup at bolts. Wrote up various options for quotes. Water pressure to home is at a safe level at 62psi.